Hiking with Keawe Adventures
Adventure is Always Waiting
Thanksgiving, The Hawaiian Way
The Intern Likes Fish?
Aloha!
To start I’m the new intern here at Keawe Adventures! My name is Rebecca and I have been in Hawaii for about 2 years now. For a big city girl from Texas, Hawaii is a big change but an incredibly inspiring one. I spent the first 19 years of my life here and there with a very dedicated father in the military and then ended up here for my last two years of college. I’ll be graduating soon but wanted to have something on my resume that shouted adventure and experience.
I mean what better way to do that than by actually having the word Adventure in there, am I right?
I came into this industry not really knowing anything about tourism or hospitality and to say I was hungry to learn is an understatement. So, I applied for this internship hoping for something new, and boy did I get something new! I have to do 400 hours of my internship and I’m so excited to have the opportunity to do that here. This will just be a fun way to document my time at Keawe Adventures.
As for my first official day ‘on the job’ I learned more about fish, fishing, and the fishing community in three hours than I have in my whole 21 years of life. I feel like I’m going to be learning a little bit of everything with my time here.
I came into work this morning at 6:30 with my venti Starbucks coffee in hand. I’m definitely not a morning person however I was really excited to start my internship adventure. I was expecting to sit at a computer, answering phone calls and spending the day in an office, but let me be the first to tell you guys, that was not the case. As soon as I walked in Makani, the owner of Keawe Adventures, was ready to go! He told me that we were going to be spending the morning “taking people fish”.
Now being the naive city girl I am I assumed we were taking frozen fish, or already cooked fish to friends, and while half of that is true (everyone we took these fish to were friends) the fish was definitely not frozen or cooked. It was fresh. Like from the ocean, probably was alive 24 hours ago or less, fresh. I’ve never seen a real fish, because in Dallas about the closest thing we get to fresh live fish is a cow, so this was a real eye opener!
*No Pun Intended*
The first place we went to was a concierge friend of Makani to drop off some fresh fish he had caught. Keawe adventures is so appreciative of the relationships they have built with the local community and so far I’m learning just how to spread the Aloha Spirit and be thankful to all the people who make this industry successful.
*Sidenote: Keawe Adventures does do Fly Fishing tours! How awesome! I seriously might just need to take one myself because when it comes to fishing I knew nothing before today.*
Anyways after, we went to the fish market to really open my eyes to what the fishing business is truly like. (Pictured above and below) I can honestly say I have never seen so many fish in one place.
Like, what? This is actually a thing!
(Pictured above, fisherman boots, because apparently slippers are not acceptable in the fish auction, and for good reason it was freezing in there and there was fresh fish EVERYWHERE!)
Honestly, I felt like a fish out of water.
*Okay, Pun definitely intended.*
But overall it was so cool to see all of the fish and to see all the fisherman interact. Relationships are so important in this industry and being able to gift someone with fish and even just make connections with fishermen is priceless.
After the large scale fish adventure, we headed over to a small pier where Makani met with his friends who had just returned from fishing. Man did they have a lot of fish! The boat seemed so small but the amount of fish they had was a ton! Literally!
They were all so nice and they worked so hard for all the fish they had caught! Two whole days of fishing, but you know what they say hard work really does pay off. They were kind enough to give Makani some more fish and instead of just keeping it he decided to pay it forward and go to more concierges with gifts of fish! It was so much fun and everyone was so appreciative!
Overall today was great although I’ll be the first to admit, I’m not a morning person, I might need to start because look how productive we were, and mind you this was all before 9am!
I can’t wait to see what this next few months has in store for me and Keawe Adventures. And don’t worry, I’ll keep you all posted on what this new chapter brings.
–Becca
The Internship
Most people hear the word ‘intern’ and immediately think of mundane paperwork, cubicles, and following strict orders without question from their demanding, impatient boss. However, Keawe Adventures blows every one of these stereotypes out of the water. My first day as an intern with this company consisted learning real life lessons applicable to living and working on a Hawaiian island and exploring Oahu’s North Shore with a client firsthand.
My day began as any day in paradise should, sun bathing on the North Shore’s famous Bonzai Pipeline beach, fresh acai bowl in hand, and a countless surfers providing awe inspiring entertainment as they rode the massive ten foot waves, Makani and his client, right alongside them. As I gazed around me, from the sand in my toes to the sun shining down on me to the waves beckoning me to jump in, I had to keep reminding myself that I was currently gaining internship hours, instead of just enjoying another day in paradise with good company.After about an hour, Makani and the client emerge from the waves, boards in hand, with that typical ‘after a good surf glow’ that you see on surfers after a particularly great session. They were joking and laughing together like old friends, and it astounded me that Makani was getting paid for this. I thought to myself, “If there is anyone that has mastered the piece of advice, ‘Do what you love and you will be successful’, it is this guy right here.”
As I was letting my mind wander, I gazed out into the ocean and at all of the surfers as they gracefully rode each wave with ease. I found myself desperately wishing I had the audacity to even jump in the water, instead of being held back by my incessant nerves. As if Makani was reading my mind, he looks at me, and says firmly, “Alright, your turn, we’re going in the water.” This was not a question, but a matter-of-fact statement. If anything was going to get me to swim in North Shore’s waves during winter, it was a direct order from my boss on my first day as an intern. I quickly jumped up, and said “Ok, just keep me alive!” and ran out into the water before I had enough time to change my mind. I had never come close to swimming in waves as big or as powerful as these, but with Makani’s guidance, I went from being terrified, to determined, to actually enjoying myself and diving under waves with my fear of being tumbled, pulled out by the current, or drowned almost diminished. Makani taught me how to always dive under the waves right before they hit and that the sand is there for you to grab if you must. I learned to never turn my back to a wave, and to most importantly, to stay out of the surfers’ way. Every wave, my fear lessened, as I applied Makani’s advice and dove confidently under each one, grabbed the sand, and listened safely from below as the waves crash down on top of me.
As I emerged from the water twenty minutes later with my throat, eyes and nose stinging from salt water, and about a pound of sand in my hair and bathing suit, I had seldom felt so accomplished. That day marked the beginning of me finally understanding and appreciating the power of the ocean, instead of fearing it. That will forever be the first and I believe, one of the most important lessons I have learned as an intern at Keawe Adventures.
After a few more minutes relaxing on the beach, we decided to head back to the client’s hotel to grab some dinner and catch the sunset. I felt as if I was with a group of friends deciding what do with their night, instead of it being a business/client relationship. It then dawned on me that this is why Makani and his company are so successful. He does not treat his clients as customers, but rather as old friends. It is because of this that his job so enjoyable for him and everyone involved, and keeps the clients comfortable, and wanting to return – which is the key to a successful business.
We pulled up to the Turtle Bay Resort just as the sun was beginning to set and all sat down at the restaurant by the beach, exhausted but fulfilled from the sun and ocean filled day. As the day turned slowly into night, we ate our delicious, well-deserved dinner, reminisced on the day’s adventures, and I could not help but feel like the luckiest intern in the world. I spent my first day surrounded by the real Hawaiian landscape, the ocean, sunshine, great company, and I learned how to keep myself alive amongst the North Shore’s infamous waves. You can’t learn that from a cubicle.
Kaniakapupu Ruins
A snapshot from today’s adventure to the ruins of Kaniakapupu, the King Kamehameha III Summer Palace.
Hawaii Business Magazine: Local Kine Biz
We’re stoked to be featured in the Hawaii Business Magazine Local Kine Biz section of their July issue! Check it out on stands now.
One Day in Waimea
We touchdown in the salty morning air of Lihue, the faint ocean mist catching the first rays of a new day. Another day, another adventure–this time on the lush and mountainous island of Kauai. The town of Lihue is flanked with a panoramic mountain range, and the shadows of the early morning sun highlight the green valleys and peaks as we head westbound towards our first adventure.
But first: some food. We stop in Kalaheo at one of Kauai’s dozens of roadside cafés serving fresh baked goods and delicious Hawaii grown coffee. It’s a breath of fresh air to be back on Kauai–the laid-back, relaxed ambiance of this island is infectious, and I already feel miles and miles away from bustling downtown Honolulu. Sipping my coffee, I admire the colorful local art and photography displayed on the walls, and catch my first glimpse of a few of Kauai’s ubiquitous wild chickens grazing in the ginger and hibiscus bushes out past the patio.
Continuing on westward, we cross bridges over numerous streams winding their way to the sea (a hint of the heavy rainfall in the thick clouds circling the mountain peaks–high above us is Mount Wai’ale’ale, one of the wettest spots on earth with an average rainfall of about 450 inches per year.) All that rain also lends itself to an extremely lush and vibrant rainforest–we drive through densely forested valleys, flowering vines draping from the towering trees, and whole sections of roadway covered by tunnels of vegetation.
We round the bend at Hanapepe, arriving on Kauai’s western facing shores, and suddenly the landscape transforms. The dry, leeward facing hills on our right give way to expansive, brilliantly white sand beaches flanking the road on our left. The water looks deep and crystal clear blue, and any of these turnoffs would be a great place to spend a day in the sun and the sea. But we continue on, heading towards Waimea, where Keawe Adventures guide Josh and his dad are waiting for us to head out for a few hours of fishing.
Waimea is a sleepy little seaside town, historically distinctive for being the landing place of the first Westerners to reach Hawaii’s shores, led by Captain James Cook in 1778.
We continue a few miles through Kekaha and out of town, eventually pulling up next to a lone truck parked on yet another endless sparkling sand beach. Josh, his dad, and one of his fishing buddies are inside—all eyes turned towards the water, scanning the shoreline, looking for the distinctive dark mass of a school of fish lingering just below the surface. They tell us there have been rumors of large schools passing through this area in recent days…but today is not one of those days. The life of a local fisherman in Hawaii is a constant game of hurry-up-and-wait—always prepared for the day when the conditions are right and the fish will bite.
For now we head to their nearby boat shed to help them get some work done before we can go play. We drive onto a short red dirt road, past a few older homes left over from the sugar plantation days and several gigantic mango trees, hanging heavy with hundreds of large red fruits. An open-air garage shelters a good-sized fishing boat, a smaller skiff, and the motors and supplies required to be a successful commercial fisherman in Hawaii.
I’m not much of a help around fishing gear, so I find a cool spot in the shade and watch their knowledgeable hands haul out hundreds and hundreds of feet of fishing net, loosely stitching together separate pieces to form one large net big enough to stretch across a football field. When the stitching is done, it’s time to re-lay the net in the skiff—hauling the hundreds of feet of line back into the boat in neat folds. The small round floats lining the net slam rhythmically into the boat rail as they pull the nets in. When they are finished, the result is a fully loaded boat, ready at a moments notice for the first sign of a school of fish and a calm breeze.
For some people, fishing is a hobby—but for Josh it is a way of living that has run in his family for generations. A local boy from the island of Kauai, Josh grew up in a fishing family, and knows all there is to know about the oceans and fish around this tranquil island.
After an hour’s work (and an hour’s entertainment for me), we load up our gear, and clamber into the boat, driving through empty streets in the mid morning heat, heading towards Kikiaola Small Boat Harbor.
In no time at all, the boat is launched in the water, and we are headed out to the open sea. Looking back towards land, the dry red dirt hills rise up gradually to meet the higher peaks of the hidden Waimea Valley beyond. We pass a boat headed off toward the small island of Ni’ihau, visible faintly in the distance. Known as “The Forbidden Isle”, Hawaii’s western most island is privately owned by the Robinson family, accessible only by invitation, and has a population of approximately 130 people, mostly Native Hawaiians.
The water in this particular area off Kauai is a greenish-blue because of the nearby Waimea Rivermouth, so we scan the waters looking for clear patches and reef formations under the water. Makani, Josh, and Josh’s dad take turns strapping on oxygen tanks, masks, and fins, and diving into the deep blue with three prong spears. They coast along the bottom, looking for shelves in the reef where the fish hide, and our job on the boat is to watch for the bubbles rising to the surface so we don’t lose anyone. After about 10 minutes, they resurface, spears loaded with a small silvery red fish called menpachi. Menpachi are a tiny nocturnal fish, popular in Hawaii because they are delicious to eat and easy to cook.
After an hour or two of bobbing around on the ocean, the wind starts to pick up, blowing small whitecaps across the formerly still surface of the water. The boys are satisfied with a dozen or so fish, so we start making our way back to the harbor. Our time on Kauai is ticking, and there is still a lot to see!
When we get back to the boat shed, it’s time to clean off all the gear. When you make a living off of your boat engines, there’s a pretty strong incentive to keep them clean and running well. Josh and his dad hose off every square inch of the boat, and spend extra time filtering clean water through the engines. By the time they are done, the boat is better than it looked this morning, and ready to ride again tomorrow!
We wave goodbye to Josh’s dad, and take off westward, this time with Josh in the driver’s seat as our guide for the afternoon. We’re headed towards the end of the road, to the longest beach in Hawaii—the dry and deserted Polihale. This wide, white sand beach stretches approximately 17 miles along Kauai’s western shore, past the Barking Sands Pacific Missile Range Facility, and back towards Kekaha.
To get there, we drive along the hot and dry highway through old sugarcane fields spread out in the flat lands below a steep, sunbaked ridge on our right. Josh makes a turn off the main road to the left, and we are headed out toward Polihale State Park, accessible only by old sugarcane roads—unpaved, narrow, and full of potholes, making it a terrifying ride for the unsuspecting tourist in a rental car. I’m glad we have Josh with us, and as he expertly navigates the tricky landscape, he tells us stories of the good times he used to have with his friends out here, and points out spots associated with local legends.
When we finally come to the beach at the end of the road, our SUV is completely coated with a fine layer of dust. It was a long drive, but worth the wait to see this spectacular stretch of beach yet again. On the right, the cliffs of the Na Pali coast rise sharply out of the ocean as far as the eye can see. On the left, the blindingly white sand beach stretches even further, in one wide stroke of sand dune. The wind whips around the western edge of Kauai, leaving a salty mist in the air, and bringing crashing waves onto the shore. This landscape is indescribably wild, and we make our way toward the place where the cliffs rise up out of the sand. Rocks litter the landscape from previous landslides, and we scour the shoreline for shells and treasures. Josh tells us this is a popular spot to collect the smooth, round rocks needed for an imu (natural underground oven used at a luau) and other Hawaiian ceremonies.
Most days the water is too dangerous for swimming here, due to extreme currents and large waves. But today it looks less threatening than usual, so I jump in and cool off in the shore break for a little while. There are just a handful of other people at the beach today—a few families barbequing, but other than that, Polihale feels as though it is perched at the edge of the world.
As mid afternoon approaches, we take a last look at the wild west of Kauai, and head back on the dirt road toward civilization and lunch. Josh brings us to the simple but scenic Waimea Plantation Cottages, one of the only vacation resorts on this side of the island. The cottages are reminiscent of old Hawaii, scattered around a large property, with wide plantation style porches and towering coconut trees on all sides. Also home to Kalapaki Joe’s, which proudly proclaims itself as the westernmost sports bar in the U.S.
We order a sampling of appetizers and fish tacos, taking Josh’s recommendations on which types of fish are fresh and locally caught at this time of year. Enjoying the warm breeze and the view of the wide lawn off the front deck, I feel a lazy “vacation mode” start to take over. This is definitely a place I could kick back and relax for a few days (maybe in one of the rocking chairs on the lanai out back). But our time on Kauai is dwindling, and we have one more adventure to get to, so we shake away our afternoon sleepiness, and take off for one last scenic stop.
Heading inland through Waimea, we begin the long and winding climb up the cliffs of the Waimea Canyon. On our left, the gentle sloping hills rise up out of the ocean overlooking Ni’ihau, and on the right, we wind closer and closer to the canyon opening, with the Waimea River snaking its way through the ridges far below.
As we climb in elevation, the temperature beings to drop, and the road winds in tighter and tighter curves. After a series of rollercoaster turns, we suddenly round a bend, and our first view of the canyon opens up on the right. The stunningly beautiful red dirt ridges and crevices, streaked with green foliage and plentiful waterfalls, is enough to take your breath away. Known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, Waimea Canyon is nearly 10 miles long and 3,000 feet deep—a panorama of spectacular views.
It’s hard not to stop at the first sight you get, but the views only improve as you get further up, so we continue on our way up the road. We stop briefly at the simple museum dedicated to Kauai’s native plant and animal species, and drive by the campgrounds and cabins for visitors who want to overnight in this tranquil setting.
Continuing up and up, we pass into the misty afternoon cloud cover, before arriving at the end of the canyon road. The Kalalau lookout overlooks the sweeping Kalalau Valley of Kauai’s Northern Na Pali Coast. This coastline is a long stretch of sheer cliffs rising straight up out of the ocean, dotted with ocean caves and waterfalls—one of the most spectacular coastlines in all of Hawaii. Unfortunately, visiting the Kalalau lookout is an activity better suited for the morning time (when the clouds are light), so today we mostly just see a lot of thick clouds, and only a hint of the beauty below. But I close my eyes and lean into the soft misty breeze, creating the image in my mind, and thinking of all the trails and streams winding their way through the valley thousands of feet below us.
From the end of the road, the only way to go is back the way we came, so we reluctantly head back, knowing the long drive that lies ahead of us back to the Lihue Airport. But we can’t leave before stopping at the best lookout point of Waimea Canyon. At an inconspicuous spot where the road runs particularly close to the steep edge of the canyon, you can see a wide section of Waimea opened up in front of you, and the cascading Waipo’o Falls tumbling down towards the Waimea River directly across from you. Like a page out of a National Geographic, it is hard to take a bad picture from this spot—there is so much beauty in all directions. I stop and stare for a few minutes, just to take it all in.
But yet again, reality calls, and the clock is rapidly ticking down our time on Kauai. We hop back in the car and begin the long and winding road back down into Waimea, along the dry red hills of the west side, and the jungle forests of southern Kauai. It has been a great day adventuring on the island with a little help from Josh, and a great change of pace from our hectic lives back in bustling Honolulu. On the island of Kauai, time moves a little slower, but when you’re with Keawe Adventures you can be sure to fill it with an action packed day of exploring and enjoying…
Wish You Were Here
What good is a tropical vacation on the most beautiful island in the world if you don’t have amazing photographs to prove it?!? Today, with the explosion of GoPros, iPhones, disposable point and shoot and fancy underwater cameras – there are no excuses! Here are a few tips for capturing those special moments:
Set The Scene: Rainbows, waterfalls, rich green mountains, black lava, endless ocean…Hawaii offers the most scenic backdrops. It’s easy to get caught up in the excitement of shooting friends and family but make sure to take some picturesque stills. Some of the most gorgeous photos are panoramic. We can take you to some fantastic locations off the beaten path for a view that is to-die-for.
Timing: Sunsets, sunrises, ocean waves crashing…sometimes you need a little patience and timing to pull off a special photo op. Try not to rush. Everyone understands the importance of getting “that” shot. Bring your camera or phone everywhere – our tour guides are happy to take your picture.
Variation: Candid, group, individual, selfies…it is important to mix it up! Don’t get in a rut of taking the same type of photo over and over. Zoom in, zoom out. Take some night shots as well as day shots. Take photos of interesting architechture, food, nature…anything that you really like. These photos will make you smile for years to come.
Lining Up the Shot: Don’t worry about the “Rule of Thirds”. The eye likes a little more visual interest/things a little off skew – so get creative. Instagram, Twitter and other apps have crop functions so you really can’t go wrong. More is more so take a bunch of photos and delete the ones you don’t like.
Movement: Vary up your poses. Looking straight at a camera and saying, “Aloha!” is great but make sure to add some life. Get those arms in the air, throw a shaka, jump off the rock at Waimea, cross your arms and lean against a banyan tree, leap in the air, look sexy…capture the feeling!
Lighting: Shadows and reflections can make for stunning photographs. Make the lighting work for you instead of against you and check different directions. If the sun is directly overhead sometimes you can play with cool shadows and shapes. Try a silohuette shot if you are facing the “wrong” direction.
Magic: Sometimes you just have to be lucky…like the time I tried and tried to get a good dolphin photo and kept taking them a second too late – then I looked at my Dad and said, “I bet if I take a selfie a dolphin will magically appear!” – but that is another story…
-Meredith Novack
Hawaii Must Eats
As I was eating dinner last night I got to thinking about must eat food when you visit Hawaii. Everyone has a favorite Hawaiian food. Take my favorite: poke. Poke is a Hawaiian staple. Go into any grocery store and you can find rows of cubed fresh ahi or salmon marinated with shoyu (soy sauce), a spicy mayo blend or oyster sauce, tossed with limu (seaweed), onions, avocados…really the options are endless. I have three favorite kinds. Counters let you sample the different varieties. The best option for one is to order a poke bowl – a bowl-full of rice topped with a generous scoop of poke at an affordable price. The biggest debate on the island isn’t politics…it’s who makes the best poke bowl!
Ofcourse poke is just one of the many amazing delicacies found in this corner of the world. Let’s explore a few more! You can’t go to Hawaii and not have a Shave Ice. Everyone has a Shave Ice…even the president of the United States has Shave Ice when he visits. Shave Ice is shaved ice in a cup (unlike snow cones which consist of crushed ice) and resembles snow. It’s topped with different flavored syrups which evenly flavors the ice. No straw is necessary – just a spoon. Hawaiian shops seem to have an endless array of tropical flavors…guava, mango, lilikoi, pineapple, coconut…special flavors like bubblegum and li hing – the combinations go on and on! They are the perfect treat after a swim at the beach.
Drive down Kapiolani near Waikiki and you will see tour buses stopped and a line out the door at Leonard’s. Leonard’s is a bakery famous for their malasadas. They have been selling malasadas for more than 60 years. Malasadas are warm, doughy and fried…kind of like a cross between a beignet and a donut. Originally from Portugal, Catholic Portuguese immigrants working in Hawaii’s sugar plantations started making these delectable sweets in Hawaii in the late 1800s. Originally coming in just one flavor, today you can buy all kinds – “original”, custard, haupia, chocolate, li hing, pineapple…
Another truly Hawaiian option is the “plate lunch”. Plate lunch is a plate of lunch – brilliant! A traditional plate lunch consists of a two scoops of rice, one scoop of macaroni and some type of meat…terriyaki chicken, shrimp… There are a few food trucks that specialize in selling plate lunches. My favorites are at the North Shore…you can literally enjoy your plate lunch and watch some whales! True story.
A food native to Hawaii is Spam Misubi. Spam Misubi is one of those items that can be a snack or a quick meal on the go. It gained popularity after World War II where Spam was offered as a main course for the troops. Spam Misubi is literally a slice of cooked Spam on a block of rice, wrapped with a piece of nori (dried seaweed). You can find these delicious and inexpensive options at any convenience or grocery store.
Why have Starbucks when you can drink some of the world’s finest coffee right here? Hawaii is the only state in the United States that is allowed to grow coffee commercially. While Kona is most famous for it’s smooth arabica bean flavor, coffee is also produced on Maui, Oahu, Kauai and Molokai. Enjoy it at a local cafe and have a delicious lilikoi pastry of banana and cream cheese scone while you are it!
If you have time to enjoy a proper luau – a traditional Hawaiian party with food and entertainment…you may run into a whole feast of things to eat: kalua pig, laulau (pork wrapped in a taro leaf), poke, poi (a dish made from taro), lomi salmon, seaweed salad, Hawaiian sweet potato (it’s purple!), haupia (coconut custard), Chicken long rice, etc. No eating utensils were needed in olden days..nowadays they are provided. Dig in!
Surrounded by the ocean, you can’t help but have the freshest, finest seafood on the planet! Every day, Hawaii’s fish market provides the best tunas, blue marlin, swordfish, mahimahi, long tail red snapper, pink snapper, sea bass, shrimp, tako (octopus)…and this beautiful tropical island also yields an abundance of fruit…lilikoi, guava, lychee, mango, pineapple, apple bananas. A nice option is to try an acai bowl – frozen acai berry puree with granola, strawberries, blueberries and banana…as you can see – when it comes to Hawaiian food you are guaranteed to find something you’ll love!
Surfboard Central
Today, I am literally surrounded by surfboards! I am cleaning them off so that our guests can enjoy them this afternoon. It is an absolutely gorgeous day. It’s around 84 degrees with a light breeze that fills the air with the scent of plumeria and pikake flowers. The sky is so blue and little puffs of white cloud gently float by…it’s the kind of Hawaii day where you just can’t wait to go to the beach!
It is overwhelming sometimes when you think of the amount of equipment needed for a fun outing at the beach. For an afternoon of surfing you would need to travel with a surfboard, straps for the car, wax, sunscreen, rash guards, hats, GoPro…the baggage fees would be enormous! Thankfully, Keawe Adventures is a full service company and with one phone call you can book an all inclusive customized tour in which every detail is accounted for. You can rest easy at your hotel and let us pick you up in style with all of the equipment needed for an incredible time in the water.
It is a great day to load the family up and head off to the rugged beauty of the North Shore or the gentle waves of Waikiki or perhaps a unique look at the country side in Makaha to the West…our guides are experienced surfers, fishermen and swimmers and they know all the best spots. I have many favorite spots! There is a special place where you can go surfing and then swim out behind the break and to the left and find some amazing caves and coral filled arches…but that is another story…
Manning The Rails
Simply put – Pearl Harbor is a must! Visiting Pearl Harbor is always special…not just because of the historical significance of the events that occurred here in the 1940′s but because it is an active military base and you never know who you might meet or what you might see!
Case in point: last week. Last week, I could not believe my eyes! I was doing some training at Pearl Harbor and was studying the USS Missouri. The USS Missouri is an 887 foot battleship, most famously known for being the location of the official surrender of Japan ending World War II. I happened to be in the control room when I looked outside the window and saw something I will never forget. The USS Carl Vinson pulling into port.
The USS Carl Vinson, an American supercarrier commissioned in 1982, was coming back from a very long deployment (nine and a half months) to the Western Pacific (they supported strike operations in Iraq and Syria and successfully flew 12,300 sorties, including 2,382 combat missions). They were coming to Hawaii for a few days to prepare for a Tiger cruise. A Tiger cruise is a special occasion for friends and family where the crew of the USS Carl Vinson run special ship tours, gun shoots and put on a sea power demonstration. 1200 “Tigers” will have the honor of traveling from Oahu back to San Diego with 6,000 of the Navy’s finest.
What made this such a memorable moment, one that I will never forget, is that all 6,000 sailors, in crisp, white uniforms, lined the deck. They stood in unison as the USS Carl Vinson pulled into Pearl Harbor, passing by me on the USS Missouri and by the USS Arizona Memorial. It is called “manning the rails”. It’s a method of saluting, dating back hundreds of years…the crew is evenly stationed along the rails when honors are rendered and it is a spectacular sight! I had only seen it in movies and now it was happening in real life! I couldn’t have been more proud of our country’s military or impressed…
It reminds me of the time I got to sit in the actual fighter jet that Tom Cruise used in the movie, Top Gun. But that is another story…
Off The Beaten Path
Yellow and white plumeria flowers littered the streets and magenta bougainvillea tumbled tumbled over the walls of mansions as we crept up a sleepy neighborhood street. We had just taken a group of seven special guests and hiked up Hawaii’s classic landmark, Diamond Head. It’s a fun, short hike with fantastic views of Waikiki and the ocean. Done with the morning’s activity and well hydrated, we decided to venture off the beaten path.
After driving for a while, we pulled over into a cul de sac and parked. I am sure our guests were wondering why were on the side of the street in front of a row of large houses. “Is this legal?” Kahana and I smiled. “Yes, it’s legal.” “Where are we going?” “Just wait…you’ll like it.” And so we quietly shuffled down a narrow path, listening to people’s breathing and the crunch of rocks and grass…until you could hear the unmistakable sounds of the wind and the ocean. Everyone started walking faster, excited at what was to come.
The end of the path opened up to an expanse of black, brown and blue. We were on the side of some cliffs. Dark rocks meet frothy white and shade after shade of blue in an area called China Walls. China Walls is a spectacular place to stop and appreciate Oahu’s nature. Ocean water flies up forcefully as it slams into rocks and a cool mist hangs in the air. It is a strikingly beautiful place that visitors will remember for the rest of their lives.
As I looked around, wind whipping people’s hair, big smiles, ocean for miles and miles, cameras recording the moment…I couldn’t help but think about my swim coach who moonlights as a cliff diver – his favorite spot to jump just a few hundred yards away…but that is another story…
-Meredith Novack
More Than Family
Family. In Hawaiian it is called ‘ohana. It’s the same as the mainland but different…family, here, is not just blood. It goes much deeper. Spend some time on the Hawaiian islands and you will come to know the true meaning.
When the bombs blew up and missiles exploded that quiet morning, the “day of infamy”, on December 7th, 1941 at Pearl Harbor – what caused such shock and stirred the hearts of Americans was that part of their family was killed. Of the 1,400 naval officers and enlisted aboard the USS Arizona, 37 were sets of brothers. The majority of those onboard were between the ages of 18 and 22 years old. When almost 1,200 of them died instantly in the unprovoked attack, America did not simply mourn. They truly grieved the loss of family. The American public wanted to hug the mothers, offer a hand to the fathers, support the sons fighting in the military in any way that they could. This act of terrorism, an act that caused the United States to formally join World War II, united the country instantly.
Family means everything. Perhaps living on a small island so far away from other civilization causes people to rely on each other a little more than other parts of the world. Everyone wanted to come together and help on this little island in the Pacific. While almost 40% of the 423,000 people living in Oahu in 1941 were of Japanese decent and more than 75% of these Japanese descendants were born American, everyone living in Hawaii wanted to protect their beautiful island and support the American war effort. One day after the attacks, lines wrapped around Oahu’s military recruitment offices with men ready to join the Army, Navy, Coast Guard or the Marines. More than 2,000 Native Hawaiians served in the United States Army during World War II. In fact, many of these men were decorated with medals of valor for their heroic acts and bravery in Europe.
Remember Pearl Harbor.
-Meredith Novack
Whale Wandering
Whales, Kohola in Hawaiian…graceful creatures…swimming, slipping quietly to the bottom of Hawaii’s warm waters and surfacing for air – spouting spray forcefully from their blowholes…whales were NOT what I expected to discover when I took a drive to Oahu’s Holona Blowhole Lookout. I expected to see a few lava tubes and rocks but what I ended up discovering was so much more.
Holona Blowhole Lookout was named after the large amount of whales that congregate in the immediate area. Humpback whales enjoy the cool waters near Alaska during the summer months then travel 3,000 miles to Hawaii’s warm waters to nurse their young during the winter. Whale season is typically late December through early May and Halona Blowhole Lookout is one of the best places on the island to spot them.
It is a divinely beautiful place to pull off the road after passing Hanauma Bay. The road winds around Oahu’s scenic coastline where you can stare in awe at the beautiful navy and turquoise sea that seems to stretch out forever…seemingly to eternity – which is the appropriate name for the adjoining beach: Eternity Beach. Eternity Beach is a small cove of golden sand. Acclaimed movies have filmed in the area, most notably the film ‘From Here To Eternity’, an Academy Award winning movie that won eight Oscars in 1953.
Hawaii’s waters are filled with vibrant sea life and while Holona Lookout is a sanctuary for majestic whales, it is also home to tropical fish, endangered monk seals and Honu. Honu is Hawaiian for turtle. Because of the Hawaiian’s hard work and dedication to protecting marine life, the Humpback whale population is thriving…so much so that they might be getting off the endangered species list soon!
Walking around, hair whipping in the strong winds, I marvel at the face of the jagged black rocks that cut sharply into the swirling ocean. Lava rock is abundant and the ocean pushes its way into crevices and holes, waves splashing up and yes…if you watch patiently…you will see a gush of water that flows through ancient lava tubes burst into the air exactly like whale’s blowhole!
While I have yet to swim with a whale, i have been fortunate to swim with pods of dolphins out in the wild blue sea…but that is another story…
-Meredith Novack
The Second Kamehameha Statue
The Kamehameha statue is famous. Every June 11th. on Kamehameha Day, this bronze statue, clothed in gold with an outstretched arm, is draped in Hawaii’s finest leis…plumeria, pekake, ginger, and tuberose decorate this striking figure. This statue is located near downtown Honolulu and I must have driven past it one hundred times…so today I decided to take a closer look and share it with you!
Standing directly in front of the Ali’iolani Hale, Hawaii’s Judiciary History Center and Supreme Court, and across the street from the Iolani Palace, stands Kamehameha, Hawaii’s ruler from 1782 until 1819. Considered the Guardian of the God of War, Kamehameha was best known for his humanitarian efforts. His grand gesture, holding a spear in one hand and reaching out to his people with the other showed the artist’s European flare, as it was a pose used commonly by Roman generals. Commissioned in 1878 by a member of the Hawaii government, this 14-foot statue was sculpted in Italy and then sent to Paris, France to be cast in bronze. In 1883 the statue was shipped to Hawaii – but it didn’t arrive. The ship carrying this precious cargo was shipwrecked near the Falkland Islands. Can you imagine? Shipwrecked!
Luckily the statue was insured for $12,000 – an exorbitant amount of money at the time – and a new one was quickly cast. Before the second statue could be shipped from Europe, fishermen in the Falkland Islands found the first statue. It was sold back to the Captain of the wrecked ship for $500…the crafty Captain then turned around and sold it immediately back to Hawaii…for $875!
Now Hawaii has TWO statues! The original statue can be located at Kamehameha’s birthplace on the big island of Hawaii and the second commissioned piece is here on Oahu…in the heart of Honolulu!
137 years later there are now six Kamehameha statues but that is another story…
-Meredith Novack
One Day in Hilo
Flying into Hilo, we could see the red tinge of the sunrise sweeping into the black sky as a new day began. The winds were light and the skies were clear—the promise of a beautiful day ahead. I hadn’t been to the Big Island in over 8 years, so as we exited the airport heading for our first adventure, I rolled down the window and took a deep breath of the damp Hilo air, full of the chirps of birds and smell of the forest. Our first mission was to tackle Mauna Kea—the magnificent mountain at the core of native Hawaiian mythology and culture.
As we headed for the hills, Hilo town fell away behind us, and we began the gentle climb through Ohia Lehua forests, punctuated with barren lava fields—decades old reminders of the volatile nature of this mountainous island. We bare right and begin the ascent—higher and higher through grazing shrub land, until we enter into the foggy dreamland of the thick morning clouds. Surprised pheasants scatter away from the road as we break through the cloud cover and see the peaks of Mauna Kea for the first time today. Looking back, a sea of clouds encircles the base of the mountain and the air outside becomes quiet and still.
When we reach the Mauna Kea visitor’s center, we stop to acclimatize to the 9,200 foot elevation, and prepare for the further elevation change ahead of us. It’s also time to pull on a jacket: the temperature is dropping rapidly as we ascend. We round a bend and start the 4-mile journey up a tightly packed gravel road, winding through gigantic volcanic cinder cones. I feel like we might be on a journey to the moon—except for the sporadic patches of ice leftover from a recent snow.
When we near the top and round the final bend, we come face to face with a gigantic white telescope dome—one of the 13 telescopes clustered around the high peaks of Mauna Kea, due to its ideal atmosphere for astronomical observation. We hop out of the car into the dizzyingly cold, clear air, having traveled from sea level up to 14,000 feet in just an hour and forty-five minutes. All around us we are surrounded by a rolling sea of volcanic cinder fragments, hundreds of thousands of years old, crunching quietly beneath our feet.
The air is still and quiet, muffling our movement as we ascend on foot to the final summit. My heart pounds from the altitude and exhilaration as we reach the highest point in the Hawaiian Islands. I look around me at the kingdom of clouds below, and feel a light waft of breeze pass over the summit, emphasizing the mystical energy of this otherworldly location. The deafening silence settles in from all sides.
When we return to the car, we take a few more minutes to explore and absorb the atmosphere, before setting off down the mountain towards our next adventure: the ocean.
Makani grew up in Hilo, so he knows the Big Island roads like the back of his hand. Leading the way back down Mauna Kea and through his old stomping grounds, he points out places where he went to school, good stores to buy fishing gear, and the site of the famous Naha stone, which according to Hawaiian legend was lifted by a young King Kamehameha, signaling his fate to one day unite the Hawaiian Islands. But the crown jewel in his Hilo tour is the beach: Honoli’i, the place where he learned how to surf.
Nearing the coast, we turn off the main road and park along a steep hill and staircase leading down to the ocean. A small, cliff-lined bay opens up in front of us, where a mountain stream meets the ocean, and a peeling wave breaks off the point. The black sand and pebble beach is bordered with picnic tables and shade trees, and is a great place to spend the afternoon surfing and enjoying a clear day in Hilo. But after a couple hours of enjoying the warm waters and watching turtles flounder around in the shallow shore break, it’s time for us to move on: our time on the Big Island is dwindling and we still have lots to see!
We cross back through town, this time skirting along the coast to see Hilo Bay and Harbor, which I remember well from a school trip to the Big Island in my canoe-paddling days back in high school. We pass an 18-foot statue of King Kamehameha on the right (one of two large Big Island statues of Hawaii’s first king), before again climbing up through the forests, this time towards Kilauea and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
As we get nearer to Hawaii’s active volcano district, we drive through neighborhoods and see rows of houses built on top of the remnants of old lava flows. Although the Big Island emanates an ancient wisdom, this island is actually quite new in geological terms—and it’s the youngest of all the Hawaiian Islands. We cross through the guard shack into the National Park, and the air is heavy with the haze of a sleeping dragon. The silky red blossoms of the Ohia Lehua trees decorate the mossy undergrowth as we make our way through the dense forest.
The first signs of the volcano come into view: steam vents on either side of the road. The steam vents are sunken holes in the earth—windows into the volcanic core, with smoke drifting lazily up through their ferns, cautioning us to what lies beneath the surface. We continue along the road to the Jagger Museum, for a better understanding of volcanic activity and Hawaii geology, and also for our first view of the Kilauea caldera. Through the haze we can see the gigantic sunken crater of Halemaumau, home of Hawaii’s most legendary goddess: Pele, the goddess of fire.
Backtracking along the caldera rim, we come to the historic Volcano House hotel, open to visitors since 1846. Strolling through the lobby, I stop at the picture windows and sit in a rocking chair to enjoy another view over the sweeping caldera. Kilauea has been actively erupting since 1983, with thick smoke drifting toward the heavens, hinting at the bubbling lava boiling beneath the surface of the crater. In the evening, hotel and dinner guests will be treated to views of the red flickering glow of the volcano by night.
Next we head to Kilauea Iki crater, the scene of a smooth sunken lava lake, left over from an eruption in 1959. I take a short hike along the crater rim trail, catching glimpses through the trees of the massive black lake of lava far below. The sound of native birds chirping echoes through the giant hapu’u ferns like a symphony. I close my eyes and feel as though I have transported centuries back in time.
Continuing along the forest trail, I come to another highlight of the national park—the Thurston Lava Tube. Hiking down a switchback path into a lush gully, we see the entrance to the large tunnel ahead, vines and ferns hanging down over the misty darkness. Walking through the cold, damp air, I feel like I am in a real life Jurassic park movie. The sounds of dripping water follow us through the tunnel, as we duck to avoid the narrow lava ceiling. Soon a pinprick of light shines visible at the end of the tunnel, growing larger and larger as we get closer to the dazzling daylight.
On the way back up to the parking lot, I am slowly shaken out of my journey in time and back into the present. We begin our slow descent back into Hilo, ears popping from the altitude change yet again. When we arrive back at the airport after an exciting and adventure filled journey, it’s hard to believe that less than one day has gone by. As we take off into the horizon heading east towards Oahu, we see the peaks of Mauna Kea standing tall above the clouds.
The Big Island earns its nickname well: it’s larger than life, and there are dozens of towns and spectacular natural wonders to explore. I know I’ll be back someday to continue the journey where I left off, but after a full day in Hilo with Keawe Adventures, I’d say we made a pretty good start!
A Rainy Day Fishing with Keawe Adventures
Even though we live in a tropical paradise, every once and a while it does rain in Hawaii…This week has been one of those times, and with a potential tropical storm passing by, the island of Oahu got pounded with several inches of rain overnight. But when you’re with Keawe Adventures, you needn’t worry! There is fun to be had no matter what the weather is like.
This week, during a brief break in the rain, we headed to Maunalua Bay, formerly one of the richest food production areas of ancient Oahu. In the bay, several mountain streams empty into the ocean during heavy rains, creating pockets of nutrient rich, murky water, which draw the fish in closer to investigate. So we seized the opportunity, and went out for a wade in the stormy seas!
Throw-netting is an ancient style of Hawaiian fishing, rarely seen practiced in the bustling metropolis of Honolulu today. It requires a very specialized knowledge, including knowledge of the fish habits and habitats. Makani was lucky to have been taught as a kid growing up on the Big Island. I had never been throw-netting before, so for me this was mostly a watch-and-learn experience. Wading around in the knee-deep brackish water, with storm clouds brewing above us, we patiently waited for the fish appear. According to Makani, when the water is murky with rain-runoff, the fish will swim right up to the sandbar at the mouth of the stream.
After a half hour with only one sighting, I was beginning to wonder if this was true after all…until Makani adjusted the weighted net looped over his shoulder, took a swing, and heaved the net into the onshore winds, encircling the spot where he had seen a silver flash. Seconds passed with no result, until a thrashing splash indicated the throw was a success! He reached down and pulled a 7-pound bonefish (known as o’io in Hawaiian) out of the water and carefully freed it from the net.
After the excitement of the catch settled down, Makani began to explain the proper way to care for the freshly caught fish. We put the fish in a mesh bag, and left it in the water while we kept fishing. He emphasized the importance of keeping the fish alive until it can be brined and put straight in the cooler, otherwise you risk the meat spoiling in just a day or two—wasting resources and what could have been a good meal.
After twenty more minutes of wading around trying to spot bonefish, we switched it up and went fly-fishing for a bit. Although not usually known as a fly-fishing destination, the sport is growing in popularity in Hawaii as a way to catch bonefish, with the fly imitating a tiny mantis shrimp. Fly-fishing is another sport requiring patience and a decent chunk of time…but after a half hour with no bites, we went back to throw-netting.
Walking down the beach to a new location, Makani taught me how to spot the turbulence on the surface of the water indicating mullet fish below the surface. With light winds blowing, it can be tricky to see, and several times I thought maybe I was just imagining things. But he set off wading slowly into the water, and waited for a patch of “nervous water” to come his way. Eventually a disturbance came by, and once again he swung and threw the net out in a wide loop around the spot. After a moment I saw him dive his arms down into the water, indicating another successful throw! He came up with a mullet, and waded back to shore for a photo op and to add it to the bag with the bonefish.
With 2 good sized fish and 3 hours gone by, we declared the day a success and headed back to the car to put the fish on ice and rinse off the gear. The best part about fishing on a stormy day is that you have the beach to yourself! Wading in the water all alone under gray skies adds to the mystical atmosphere of the experience, and makes for a good story. So next time you’re in Hawaii and see rain on the forecast, don’t be afraid! There are adventures to be had, if you know where to look…
-Juliana
Keawe Adventures Island Tours
On an Island Tour with Keawe Adventures, you can go beyond the beaches and rainbows, and get an up close look at the various cultures that have given Hawaii such a culturally rich and diverse history. (But don’t worry, you’ll still have time to hang out on a few sparkling white sandy beaches too!) Pictured below is the Byodo-In buddhist temple in the Valley of the Temples on Oahu’s east side.